IKATdna® database concept
There are only several countries in the world (Afghanistan, Argentina, Cambodia, Bolivia, Ecuador, Guatemala, India, Indonesia, Japan, Mexico, Myanmar, Philippines, Spain (Mallorca), Tajikistan, Thailand, Uzbekistan, Yemen and some others) where ikat textiles are produced. This kind of textiles is an important part of the cultural heritage of these countries. The group of Central Asian ikats known as abr fabrics is especially colorful and represents the starting point for the development of the database.
The labor- and time-consuming technology used for ikat manufacture belongs to the so-called “reservation” techniques. It consists of binding the sections of warp and/or weft threads in bundles that are wrapped with a color-resistant material before they are dyed. After taking away the bindings, it becomes apparent that the dye could not go through them. As a result, a two-colored thread design appears. In case of a multi-colored composition, the binding and dyeing of different sections of the same threads according to the design has to be repeated consecutively several times. After the final dyeing process and after the threads have been laid out, the weaving can be started..
The possibilities generated by electronic data and the World Wide Web have inspired this broad-ranged and multi-disciplinary project of developing a database for ikat textiles, which fosters further research and transfer of knowledge about these textiles in order to analyze, streamline, and formalize the scientific knowledge about the subject. This includes:
- A data management system
- The possibility of multivariable search requests as an analysis instrument
- Opportunities for international user exchange and networking
IKATdna® is an independent electronic multimedia tool for scientific, educational, industrial, and handicraft production purposes and a resource for institutions (museums, galleries, producers and etc.) as well as for individuals: handicraftsmen, designers, textile professionals, ethnographers, textile anthropologists, cultural mediators, artists, ethnologists, collectors, students and everybody who is interested in this kind of textile art and handicraft.
The Story behind IKATdna®
The idea for an ikat database dates back to the year 2005 and was instigated by Dr. Lola Shamukhitdinova. At this time, the necessity to develop a useful instrument to document and analyze the quickly growing digital collections of Central Asian ikats emerged. Later on, an international and multilingual web version of such a database has been realized, which made it possible to accumulate knowledge not only about Central Asian ikats, but about ikats from other parts of the world as well.
Between 2010 and 2018 with some interruptions, IKATdna® has been developed at the Institute of Art and Material Culture at TU Dortmund University first as part of the international and multidisciplinary scientific-educational research project “Modernity of Tradition: Uzbek Textile Heritage as a Cultural and Economic Resource” I (2010-2012) und II (2013-2015) , which was directed by Prof. Gabriele Mentges Prof. Dr. Gabriele Mentges and funded by scientific Foundation VolkswagenStiftung (Germany) and later on in 2017-2018 as a research topic at the Institute of Art and Material Culture TU Dortmund University.
The construction of IKATdna® is the result of a joint work of experts from different research fields: textile specialists, cultural anthropologists and IT specialists. Architecture and interface have been developed according to the research team’s conception, and a request function has been implemented into the database. The request function makes it possible to execute complex searches within the database.
The Structure of IKATdna®
In order to be integrated into the database, every textile ikat object has to be represented, described, and categorized optimally. The description has to be complete, and the number of categories chosen for the object cannot be infinite. The problems posed by creating categories were resolved by dissecting general ikat patterns into particular features (specifications).
During the preliminary review of scientific literary sources, more and more details accumulated, with the result that there are now 26 categories that can be used to describe an object. Every category has its own further specifications (options). Most of the categories have between 3 and 20 specifications, but for some categories, the number of options is unlimited. The open structure of the classification system means that it can be further developed if necessary.
IKATdna® has several analytical tools: it allows users to analyze data from many different perspectives, to categorize, and to summarize identified interconnections. With its request system, IKATdna® was also conceived as an instrument for investigating the technological, visual, and retrospective or historical aspects of textiles in general. The database provides different levels of user access: “read only”, for being able to view the data; “editor”, which allows for alterations of the data; and “publisher”, which enables the user to release the data to the public. Both the editor and publisher level require the user to be an expert or can e.g. be granted for institutions.
The construction of IKATdna® is the result of a joint work of experts from different research fields: textile specialists, cultural anthropologists and IT specialists. Architecture and interface have been developed according to the research team’s conception, and a request function has been implemented into the database. The request function makes it possible to execute complex searches within the database.
IKATdna® working team
IKATdna® was planned as an international, multidisciplinary and multi-lingual on-line database (accessible in English, German and Russian).
In order to successfully realize such a project, it was important to have a transcultural team of specialists from Germany and Uzbekistan, as well as experts from different academic and professional backgrounds (cultural anthropologists of textile and fashion, textile technologists, IT professionals).
The project and the team-members itself profited from such cooperation: They created new working methods, developed new skills, and even new ideas evolved. These were very useful because the IKATdna®-team had to work on construction and research, as well as on establishing various networks.
 | Dipl. Ing., Dr. Lola Shamukhitdinova (Idea, management, research) She is a specialist and scientist in clothing, textile technology, and design. She received her doctorate from the Moscow State University of Design and Technology. Previously, she held positions as associate professor at the Tashkent Institute for Textile and Apparel Industry and as head of the department “Technology and design of Apparel industry products” (2005-2006). In 2010-2012, 2013-2015 she coordinated the International research project „Modernity of Tradition: Uzbek Textile Heritage as cultural and economic ResourceI,II” (financed by VWStiftung and directed by Prof.Dr.G.Mentges) and was a research fellow at TU Dortmund University (2016-2018). Her research interests include contemporary and traditional Central Asian textile design, technology and consumption. More information here: http://www.fk16.tu-dortmund.de/textil/02_personal/pdfs/vita_shamukhitdinova.pdf |
 | Markus Rempe (IT specialist) Markus Rempe has more than thirty years of professional IT experience. He joined the IKATdna®-team in 2009. Working Industries: logistics, finance, science and whole sales. Specialized on Programming, Infrastructure and Consulting. More information here: https://www.xing.com/profile/KonradMarkus_Rempe/cv?sc_o=mxb_p |
 | Johanna Korbik (Data research) Johanna Korbik is a doctoral candidate at TU Dortmund University. After working as a costume design assistant, she has studied Cultural Anthropology of Textiles, Textile Design, English language and literary studies and Cultural Mediation at TU Dortmund, where she has been a research assistant since 2015. Her research interests include mail order fashion and catalogues, the history of ready-made apparel and Do-it-yourself cultures, amongst others. Johanna Korbik has joined the IKATdna® team in 2014. |
 | Louise Brusdeilins (Data research) Since 2016 Louise Brusdeilins is a student scientific assistant at the Institute of Art and material culture TU Dortmund University. She is a student in Cultural Anthropology of Textiles and Protestant Theology at the TU Dortmund. Her special interest is firstly focused on the analysis of different cultures. Additionally she takes place in the development of concepts to communicate culturally specific differences. Louise Brusdeilins joined the IKATdna®-team in 2016. |
 | Nanza Ortansia Capitao (Data research) Ortansia Capitao is a student assistant to the IKATdna® project since early 2016. Additionally, she is a postgraduate student in Cultural Analysis and Cultural Transfer focusing Cultural Anthropology of Textiles at the Technical University Dortmund, Germany, concentrating on the analysis of fashion from a critical and especially from a postcolonial perspective. From 2014 to 2016, she realized an internship at the Industrial museum (LWL Industriemuseum) Textilwerk Bocholt, Germany carrying out scientific research and historic analysis of the museum’s inventory. Since 2016, she works as research fellow at the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Competence Center for Textile and Clothing Niederrhein at the University of Applied Sciences Niederrhein and researches in applied sustainability development in the textile and clothing industry, especially corporate social responsibility. The textile and clothing assistant by training holds a first-class honours bachelor’s degree in Design Engineering Fashion from the University of Applied Sciences Niederrhein, Germany. During her undergraduate studies she intensively investigated the topic of sustainability in the fashion industry, especially sustainable textile design. Being a multi-perspective apparel specialist she is eager to analyze discourses around cultural, ethical, and sustainable issues.. |
 | Meike Müller (Data research) After studying Cultural scienes at the University of Leipzig and some internships in theatre and art mediation she is a postgraduate student in Cultural Analysis and Cultural Transfer focusing fashion and cultural anthropology at the Technical University Dortmund since 2015. In her thesis she focuses on fashion and broadcasting and creates her own podcast in which she talks about fair fashion. Since 2016 she has been a student scientific assistant at the Institute of Art and Material Culture and took part in development of the IKATdna®. . |
